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Omega guld klocka köpråd

Gustav Ohlson

Gustav Ohlson

Breitling
Hej jag är ny på klock fronten men jag har intresserat mig för en Omega guld klocka antigen seamaster eller geneve, manuell, guld på stål eller 14/18k guld. Vad ska jag tänka på? Vilket urverk och caliber är bäst eller mest populärast och är det olika priser på olika urverk/caliber vid service hos urmakare. All sorts info uppskattas.

Mvh noll koll:)
 
Gustav Ohlson

Gustav Ohlson

Breitling
Bra svar från en kille från England.

Hi and welcome. Seamasters and Geneves from the 60s are fun to collect. During this period, Omega was making some of their finest movements -- 561, 562, 564, 565. 561 and 564 were used in their premium line -- the Constellations. Both were 24 jewel automatic movements that were chronometer certified. The 564 offered a quick-set feature for changing the date -- repeatedly pulling the crown out to the second position advanced the date. The Seamasters were considered Omega's everyman watch and was offered at a lower price. They used the 562 and later, the 565, which were identical to the 561 and 564 of the Connies, respectively, in every aspect except they were not tested and certified as chronometers. Now, 40+ yrs later, it really doesn't mater that one movement was adjusted in five positions to ensure a certain degree of accuracy and another wasn't.
When you're shopping for a vintage Omega, you want to be wary of cases that don't hold the movement that were originally in them when they left the factory, movements that have been rebuilt from parts from multiple movements (possibly not even the same caliber), and dials that have been re-done.
The movement includes both the caliber (561, 562...) and it's unique serial # engraved on its bridges. The inside of the caseback will include the reference (model) # and hallmarks if solid gold. Never buy without seeing clear pictures of both of these. Start with the reference # on the caseback and go to the vintage data base on Omega's website or google it. You'll see what caliber movement should be in it and when it was produced. Confirm the caliber of the movement in the one you are considering is correct. Google 'omega serial number by year' to find schedules showing the year of movement production based on serial #. Does the year of manufacture of the movement in the piece you are considering coincide with the years that the case was produced? They made and stored movements, possibly for a year or so before installing them in a case, so take that into account.
Does the movement look to be the same color on all parts? If some are shiny and some are patinaed, it may have been built from multiple movements.
Look for evidence of corrosion on the movement and around the lip of the caseback. Best to avoid any that show signs. There are plenty available that don't.
Look at images of other watches on the internet with same ref # and caliber. Do they look the same? Sometimes casebacks from one have been put on another, or bridges or balance cocks from one caliber married up with a bridge that is engraved with the # of another caliber.
An original crystal will have an omega emblem etched in it at the center above the pin for the hands. The crown should have an omega emblem on it too.
Don't be too concerned if the hands and indices on the dial are different than the one shown in the Omega vintage database for that case. Omega offered multiple dials, hands and indices for each case, and they only show one in the database. But do make sure the hands match each other (stick or dauphine).
Look at several on ebay and get familiar with a couple of styles you particularly like and get an idea of what they sell for so that you're ready to bid when you see another. Google the ref # to find them on vintage omega dealer sites on the web too just to learn more about value based on condition.
 
Gustav Ohlson

Gustav Ohlson

Breitling
Och detta.

Very sound advice from aardvarkbark! This is a favourite website of mine, a seller in the UK who sells beautiful vintage watches. Also a website that give very good advice/do's and dont's etc.
Vintage Watches including - Asprey, Breitling, Cartier,- Dunhill, Eterna, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser, Harrods, Harwood, Hermes, Heuer, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, JW Benson, Longines, Mappin & Webb, Movado, Omega, Rolex, Tiffany & Co, Ulysse Nardin, Unive
Very good reading, not only about the individual pieces but also on the pros and cons on buying vintage, and what to look for. It's a whole new world out there when it comes to vintage, and one I would like to learn a lot more about myself.
 
Icaras

Icaras

Rolex
Ska läsa texten snart, men du vet att du har ca 10min på dig att redigera din text? Så slipper du spamma inlägg efter varandra :)
 
Empa

Empa

Donnie Brasco
2-Faktor
Måste den vara manuell, cal. 561, 562, 564 och 565 är alla automater.

Men för frågan om vilket som är bäst så är de flesta bra urverk som är relativt enkla att serva för en urmakare.
Kronometer certifierade urverken (C.O.S.C) är: 28.10 RA, 331, 340, 354, 551, 560, 561, 562, 563, 564, 672, 682, 712, 864, 1001, 1011, 1021, 1041, f300Hz

Sedan är det nog bättre om du googlar lite bilder och lägger upp på några du gillar utseendet på så är det lättare att hitta mer info.
Rent generellt så kolla att urverket är gjort för den referensen, kolla så kanterna på bandhorn och boett är skarpa, kolla urtavlan så inga skador eller annat "kladd".
 
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