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KS stora Parfymtråd

DD:
DDF14485-00DF-4C21-B95A-C4ECA8BA77D6.jpeg

 
Jag är själv väldigt förtjust i AdP. Finns alltid hemma så att säga.

Jag prova den nu i somras på Gents Helsingborg och det sa klick direkt!

Den är somrig, lite söt efter ett tag. Annars tycker jag doftnoterna stämmer bra som beskrivs.

Kan absolut rekommendera att prova den. För egen del sa det klick!
 
Luca Turins tankar om PdM:
I remember smelling the first Parfums de Marly fifteen years ago and thinking: never again. They were the French Xerjoff, i.e. a pileup of vulgarity, ugliness and pretension. The outfit is named after the Chateau de Marly near Versailles, Louis XIV’s salotto buono¹, a relatively small place, only twelve pavilions by the Seine, to which the king, tired of all the ritual he had himself meticulously devised, would retire with a select few.

Among nerds, Marly is instead famous for having hosted, from 1682 to 1813, a superb, unreliable and insufficient wooden Machine that was to supply Versailles’s jeux d’eau with ample water from the Seine by lifting it over a hill, though it never quite managed to fully power all the fountains.

Having skirted around Marly stands on perfume floors for so long, righteous thoughts came to me of second chances, opportunities for redemption, statutes of limitations, etc. I decided to give them another try. Sampling all 30+ current offerings seemed a bit much, so I asked the sales attendant to show me the most popular masculines and feminines.

They smell cheap. They also smell powerful. This got me asking three questions. First, would they cease smelling “cheap” if the price were lower? Second, suppose they were so powerful that a single spritz lasted a week, even if you hosed yourself down twice daily; would that make them de facto worth the cost? Third, given that geniuses like Jean Carles (Tabu, Canoé, Shocking, Ma Griffe) took pride in making inexpensive fragrances smell expensive, what exactly is Marly missing?

To the first question, the answer is no. The antidote to smelling cheap is not lower prices. It is being cheerful. Claire’s brilliant Cherry Bliss is a perfect illustration of a perfume that is cheap to make, smells cheap, is cheap to buy, but still makes you smile. The problem with Marly and all congeners is that they are posturing as grand, solemn luxury and failing. It’s the coverup, not the crime, that does you in.

Second, unless the earth slows down drastically in its rotation, a perfume should have a roughly 12-hour time course. Yesterday’s perfume is old news and just says I haven’t washed, so semi-permanent perfume should not be an option.

Third, Jean Carles achieved his commercial miracles by a judicious mixture of what Voltaire, explaining the ingredients needed to get rid of one’s enemies, called “arsenic and prayers.” Aromachemicals are the arsenic here, naturals the prayers. The nose is very good at estimating the number of peaks that would come out of a gas chromatograph if you put the perfume through it. That is why Iso-E Super, a complex mixture of isomers, could be made into a creditable perfume inaccurately called Molecule 01.
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