Great to have the producer here. I must say the Bonaire is a good looking watch but I am very interested on your view of originality. To be honest, the Bonaire is not an original design, more or less an copy of the Blancpain. How important is it to make something new instead of borrowing from others?
On another note, what watches do you have in your collection? New/modern watches? Vintage pieces?
Thanks for the reply Aurum. It depends on your view of originality. In my opinion in the whole watch industry there is not much originality, well, there is much originality but not much if you see the bigger picture of the industry and if you look at affordable pieces. What I wanted to achieve was a modern version of vintage timepieces I absolutely love. Any timepiece that is vintage inspired is not original because it's "inspired" so it borrows features from designs in the past.
One of them is the fifty fathoms indeed, which is in my view also the most important vintage dive watch. Some others would be the Eterna KonTiki, Eberhard Scafograf, Omega Railmaster, Seamaster, LACO, Rolex Submariner and so on. And to be honest, while I like the MilSpec that Blancpain has released a while ago, I feel it's not inspired enough by the original one. The proportions are off in my opinion.
While many vintage inspired dive watches tend to choose for domed sapphires, and cases that are thin, I wanted to focus on making a modern watch with a modern look and feel yet with vintage inspiration that can be seen within the same look. I did not want a domed sapphire simply because it does not have the same charm as a domed plexi and it will never have that charm. I'm making a modern watch, not making a vintage watch. It has vintage inspiration.
I chose to have a narrow high curved bezel insert which was not used in the 60's, but is possible now due to the nature of the material now. The bezel is thin which makes it elegant, yet gives the watch a certain depth, especially since the crystal is slightly curved as well. The thickness is still not much by 12,5mm but the case is "built up", which means the caseback doesn't stick out but lies flat.
A design feature that is known from back in the day but it also allows to give the watch a nice presence on the wrist and a certain sportivity/masculinity yet refined due to the bezel and clean dial.
The lugs is also something I have not seen with modern pieces. Creating something new is important but creating something refreshing is more important in my opinion. Designs are being borrowed all the time and all the big boys are looking at the next move of any other watch company. Only the most important ones stand out from the crowd. I have also chosen for different case finishings, polished and brushed to give the watch more charm and contrast. It also gives a certain feel of quality as polishing is not just polishing. You have various grades.
I am by no means a designer nor will I call myself that, I am a watch guy and a collector, I have created a watch that shows the combination of my passion for vintage watches, modern pieces, timeless design and craftwork.
Something else I value a lot is quality. I have had pieces in my hand during the years of collecting from big brands and small brands where I honestly thought they felt bad. Straps that feel like cardboard leather with a cheap machine stitch, bezels that do not feel firm, no date watches yet you hear the date click at midnight, stuff like this had to be avoided.
I wanted to offer a complete package for the price I'm entering the market, meaning that you get a package with an overall top quality feel.
A Swiss movement was a must since I'm in Europe. It's only a few hours driving to the factory, which means I create a personal bond with the factory. I do like the Japanese movements but it doesn't make sense to use them when you're living so close to Switzerland. And the Swiss watchmaking history plays a big part in my choice as well.
So to answer your question, how important it is to create something original or use influences from existing pieces I would reply that it is much more important to create something refreshing vs. something completely new. And especially on a dive watch, something completely new is near to impossible.
Something refreshing can be amazing. Look at Halios, Unimatic, Dan Henry just to name a few micros. Are they original? I don't think they are, are they refreshing, yes they are!
That is offcourse my own personal opinion.
Concerning my own collection, it contains both modern and vintage pieces.