• Välkommen till ett uppdaterat Klocksnack.se

    Efter ett digert arbete är nu den största uppdateringen av Klocksnack.se någonsin klar att se dagens ljus.
    Forumet kommer nu bli ännu snabbare, mer lättanvänt och framför allt fyllt med nya funktioner.

    Vi har skapat en tråd på diskussionsdelen för feedback och tekniska frågeställningar.

    Tack för att ni är med och skapar Skandinaviens bästa klockforum!

    /Hook & Leben

Stora tråden om mikromärken och andra "affordables"

LennyK

Panerai
Jag fullkomligt ÄLSKAR manuella klockor. Det är inte helt oviktigt att veta för jag kommer lovsjunga detta till min död osv etc. Ett manuellt urverk skiljer ju sig inte på något annat sätt än att rotorn saknas så allt du är van vid i övrigt är detsamma. Fördelen är naturligtvis ett tunnare verk. Rotorn är borta och därmed behovet av en större boett för att rymma nämnda rotor. Dessutom försvinner det andra som kommer av en roterande metallbit: ljudet och rörelsen.

Du behöver dra upp den ca varannan dag. Räkna med runt 40 h gångreserv efter fullt uppdrag. Däremot är det helt fantastiskt trevligt att få dra upp klockan varje morgon och alltid få den interaktionen. Att sedan då och då göra små frivilliga och helt onödiga uppdrag under dagen "för att hålla igång", är en del av charmen med manuella urverk. Kort sagt tycker jag att en manuell klocka känns ännu bättre!

Och glöm inte att Världens Finaste Kronograf är handdragen.
Där sålde du in det bra! Tack!
 

DrSbaitso

Rolex
2-Faktor
Jag fullkomligt ÄLSKAR manuella klockor. Det är inte helt oviktigt att veta för jag kommer lovsjunga detta till min död osv etc. Ett manuellt urverk skiljer ju sig inte på något annat sätt än att rotorn saknas så allt du är van vid i övrigt är detsamma. Fördelen är naturligtvis ett tunnare verk. Rotorn är borta och därmed behovet av en större boett för att rymma nämnda rotor. Dessutom försvinner det andra som kommer av en roterande metallbit: ljudet och rörelsen.

Du behöver dra upp den ca varannan dag. Räkna med runt 40 h gångreserv efter fullt uppdrag. Däremot är det helt fantastiskt trevligt att få dra upp klockan varje morgon och alltid få den interaktionen. Att sedan då och då göra små frivilliga och helt onödiga uppdrag under dagen "för att hålla igång", är en del av charmen med manuella urverk. Kort sagt tycker jag att en manuell klocka känns ännu bättre!

Och glöm inte att Världens Finaste Kronograf är handdragen.
För att inte tala om hur mycket trevligare verket är att titta på när det inte finns en rotor i vägen.
FO-Werk-webbild-perfekt.jpg
 

Aurum

Harsh but fair
2-Faktor
Hi guys,

I'm Stijn, the founder of Méraud. I found this thread through google and wanted to post a message here to say thank you for the support! It means a lot to me.
With Méraud I'm trying to express my passion through the offering of my own timepieces. I have been collecting for 12 years and have handled many pieces, ranging from Seiko to Patek. And often I felt that there was a lack of attention for certain things. This both from small brands as with big brands. So in the first place I wanted to create a watch for myself, something that I would be pleased with. Not a vintage piece but a modern piece with vintage inspiration. After a burglary I was also looking for a piece that I could take with me anywhere in the world, without hesitation, to use on a daily basis. And since I'm mainly a vintage guy, I chose for a vintage inspiration.

We're now almost 2 years since my first drawing and idea and in the meantime fully funded on Kickstarter which is amazing and which is which is why I need to thank all my backers and supporters. A couple are on here, thank you.

One of the things where I really wanted to jump out of the crowd is the value for money. I am no hardcore microbrand collector, let that be clear, yet I wanted to offer a timepiece within the microbrand pricing range. I am well aware of the cheaper and more expensive brands. But what I wanted in the first place is something that I would buy myself.

I'm a strap guy so I spent a lot of time on finding the right strapmaker. I already knew that tannerie Haas was the ones I would work with (you can look them up, very interesting). The production is located in Switzerland, Hong Kong, France and Germany. Final quality check and shipping is in Belgium. No reason not to be transparant, yes I work with manufacturers in the Far East, that have been picked out carefully. I chose the manufacturers based upon references they had, production timeframe, price and quality. There's a huge difference from the one manufacturer to the other, hehe.

That being said, at the beginning of my Kickstarter I had a few backers asking for a blue rubber tropic strap. We're now about one month later and I have got it produced. I agree that it looks much better on the "Marine Blue" dial. The blue color is based upon an original blue tropic strap that I had lying here. The finishing has a look of the old one and the feel but one can never reproduce them. The original tropic will stay the best one!

Some photos:

E9108318-6045-4CCF-91AF-5A2F27F17D7E.jpeg
394E8136-8971-42B9-AD05-ADC08C7EA846.jpeg
LRG_DSC06781.JPG


We are now entering the last 2 days of the Kickstarter campaign and it's been quite a ride, very intense, and even emotional.

Thanks again for the support! If you have any question, feel free to let me know.
Kind regards,

Stijn
Great to have the producer here. I must say the Bonaire is a good looking watch but I am very interested on your view of originality. To be honest, the Bonaire is not an original design, more or less an copy of the Blancpain. How important is it to make something new instead of borrowing from others?

On another note, what watches do you have in your collection? New/modern watches? Vintage pieces?
 

Jockinho

Patek
2-Faktor
Nu har jag en plan för Black Friday. Jag har en itch för en viss typ av klocka som behöver stillas.
Jag kommer aktivt leta efter klocka som typ dessa, för max $500-$600. Tips mottages gärna.
c65-41-agm1-s0kk0-b0_fr_3.jpg

Så alltså, SS bezel eller ingen bezel alls. 40-42mm. Måste komma på länk (Såvida ingen vill sälja sin Seaforth till ett kraftigt rabatterat pris ;))

Billigare alternativ, tycker hajloggan äter CW’s till frukost :pompus:
E6396C46-0AFB-4908-83E0-00C310C00758.png


Faktiskt inte tänkt på att CW kanske har rea, en Quartz trident själv vore lite trevligt kanske att fundera på!
 

Petrik

Panerai
Kollade på Christopher ward, väldigt fina klockor c60 storlek 43 mm lug till lug 51,5 är det någon som har små handleder och har en bild,blir livrädd för att den blir för stor, som att gå med en stekpanna på handleden, själv har jag 16,5 handled,.
Och 38 modellen tror jag blir alldeles för liten ( lug till lug 45,5 lug till lug)
 

Skiddie

Cartier
Nu har jag en plan för Black Friday. Jag har en itch för en viss typ av klocka som behöver stillas.
Jag kommer aktivt leta efter klocka som typ dessa, för max $500-$600. Tips mottages gärna.
c65-41-agm1-s0kk0-b0_fr_3.jpg

screenshot_20181114-210216_instagram-jpg.963601

f71b41b4cd349b60792ec9f2069b62f5.jpg

6f0c98aeddbe6e17115f7004540fd803.jpg


Så alltså, SS bezel eller ingen bezel alls. 40-42mm. Måste komma på länk (Såvida ingen vill sälja sin Seaforth till ett kraftigt rabatterat pris ;))

Har letat lite själv efter GMT's i den stilen. Hittade den här: https://www.wancher.com/watch/ranger-ii-gmt/stainless-steel
Vet inget om märket. Ser ok ut men cyklopet och mercedes-visarna är inte min kopp te. Men $280 är ju helt ok pris.
 

Birchgrove

Vacheron
2-Faktor
Har letat lite själv efter GMT's i den stilen. Hittade den här: https://www.wancher.com/watch/ranger-ii-gmt/stainless-steel
Vet inget om märket. Ser ok ut men cyklopet och mercedes-visarna är inte min kopp te. Men $280 är ju helt ok pris.
Aldrig hört talas om det märket, synd att dom inte preciserar vad det är för urverk som sitter i. Och trots att jag inte har något emot homager så kändes deras line-up lite för mycket. Och således inget för mig, men bra tips ändå :)
 

M.L.

Vacheron
2-Faktor
Great to have the producer here. I must say the Bonaire is a good looking watch but I am very interested on your view of originality. To be honest, the Bonaire is not an original design, more or less an copy of the Blancpain. How important is it to make something new instead of borrowing from others?
On another note, what watches do you have in your collection? New/modern watches? Vintage pieces?
Vilken Blancpain är den mer eller mindre en kopia av?
 

Jockinho

Patek
2-Faktor
Kollade på Christopher ward, väldigt fina klockor c60 storlek 43 mm lug till lug 51,5 är det någon som har små handleder och har en bild,blir livrädd för att den blir för stor, som att gå med en stekpanna på handleden, själv har jag 16,5 handled,.
Och 38 modellen tror jag blir alldeles för liten ( lug till lug 45,5 lug till lug)

Körde 43mm, samma handled. Den satt perfekt tyckte jag iaf. Skulle iof kunnat tänka mig 38mm med att prova men 43mm blir inte för stort tro mig :)
 

Birchgrove

Vacheron
2-Faktor
Kollade på Christopher ward, väldigt fina klockor c60 storlek 43 mm lug till lug 51,5 är det någon som har små handleder och har en bild,blir livrädd för att den blir för stor, som att gå med en stekpanna på handleden, själv har jag 16,5 handled,.
Och 38 modellen tror jag blir alldeles för liten ( lug till lug 45,5 lug till lug)
Kan ju värt att prova, CW har ju sin 60 dagars policy. Trivs du inte med någon av storlekarna så är det ju bara att skicka tillbaka :)
 

stijn_meraud

Breitling
Great to have the producer here. I must say the Bonaire is a good looking watch but I am very interested on your view of originality. To be honest, the Bonaire is not an original design, more or less an copy of the Blancpain. How important is it to make something new instead of borrowing from others?

On another note, what watches do you have in your collection? New/modern watches? Vintage pieces?

Thanks for the reply Aurum. It depends on your view of originality. In my opinion in the whole watch industry there is not much originality, well, there is much originality but not much if you see the bigger picture of the industry and if you look at affordable pieces. What I wanted to achieve was a modern version of vintage timepieces I absolutely love. Any timepiece that is vintage inspired is not original because it's "inspired" so it borrows features from designs in the past.

One of them is the fifty fathoms indeed, which is in my view also the most important vintage dive watch. Some others would be the Eterna KonTiki, Eberhard Scafograf, Omega Railmaster, Seamaster, LACO, Rolex Submariner and so on. And to be honest, while I like the MilSpec that Blancpain has released a while ago, I feel it's not inspired enough by the original one. The proportions are off in my opinion.

While many vintage inspired dive watches tend to choose for domed sapphires, and cases that are thin, I wanted to focus on making a modern watch with a modern look and feel yet with vintage inspiration that can be seen within the same look. I did not want a domed sapphire simply because it does not have the same charm as a domed plexi and it will never have that charm. I'm making a modern watch, not making a vintage watch. It has vintage inspiration.

I chose to have a narrow high curved bezel insert which was not used in the 60's, but is possible now due to the nature of the material now. The bezel is thin which makes it elegant, yet gives the watch a certain depth, especially since the crystal is slightly curved as well. The thickness is still not much by 12,5mm but the case is "built up", which means the caseback doesn't stick out but lies flat.

A design feature that is known from back in the day but it also allows to give the watch a nice presence on the wrist and a certain sportivity/masculinity yet refined due to the bezel and clean dial.

The lugs is also something I have not seen with modern pieces. Creating something new is important but creating something refreshing is more important in my opinion. Designs are being borrowed all the time and all the big boys are looking at the next move of any other watch company. Only the most important ones stand out from the crowd. I have also chosen for different case finishings, polished and brushed to give the watch more charm and contrast. It also gives a certain feel of quality as polishing is not just polishing. You have various grades.

I am by no means a designer nor will I call myself that, I am a watch guy and a collector, I have created a watch that shows the combination of my passion for vintage watches, modern pieces, timeless design and craftwork.

Something else I value a lot is quality. I have had pieces in my hand during the years of collecting from big brands and small brands where I honestly thought they felt bad. Straps that feel like cardboard leather with a cheap machine stitch, bezels that do not feel firm, no date watches yet you hear the date click at midnight, stuff like this had to be avoided.

I wanted to offer a complete package for the price I'm entering the market, meaning that you get a package with an overall top quality feel.

A Swiss movement was a must since I'm in Europe. It's only a few hours driving to the factory, which means I create a personal bond with the factory. I do like the Japanese movements but it doesn't make sense to use them when you're living so close to Switzerland. And the Swiss watchmaking history plays a big part in my choice as well.

So to answer your question, how important it is to create something original or use influences from existing pieces I would reply that it is much more important to create something refreshing vs. something completely new. And especially on a dive watch, something completely new is near to impossible.
Something refreshing can be amazing. Look at Halios, Unimatic, Dan Henry just to name a few micros. Are they original? I don't think they are, are they refreshing, yes they are!

That is offcourse my own personal opinion.

Concerning my own collection, it contains both modern and vintage pieces.
 
Senast ändrad:

Jockinho

Patek
2-Faktor
Let’s be honest. It’s very similiar, and why try to say it’s not. It’s a great looking watch and the style will suit many in the 2000 just as it did back than. It doesn’t say blancpain on the dial and will never be one so feel proud about a product many seem to like, but to try defend it as a more or less own bonaire design is for me not the right way to go. I dont mind homages :)
 

Aurum

Harsh but fair
2-Faktor
Thanks for the reply Aurum. It depends on your view of originality. In my opinion in the whole watch industry there is not much originality, well, there is much originality but not much if you see the bigger picture of the industry and if you look at affordable pieces. What I wanted to achieve was a modern version of vintage timepieces I absolutely love. Any timepiece that is vintage inspired is not original because it's "inspired" so it borrows features from designs in the past.

One of them is the fifty fathoms indeed, which is in my view also the most important vintage dive watch. Some others would be the Eterna KonTiki, Eberhard Scafograf, Omega Railmaster, Seamaster, LACO, Rolex Submariner and so on. And to be honest, while I like the MilSpec that Blancpain has released a while ago, I feel it's not inspired enough by the original one. The proportions are off in my opinion.

While many vintage inspired dive watches tend to choose for domed sapphires, and cases that are thin, I wanted to focus on making a modern watch with a modern look and feel yet with vintage inspiration that can be seen within the same look. I did not want a domed sapphire simply because it does not have the same charm as a domed plexi and it will never have that charm. I'm making a modern watch, not making a vintage watch. It has vintage inspiration.

I chose to have a curved bezel insert which was not used in the 60's, but is possible now due to the nature of the material now. The bezel is thin which makes it elegant, yet gives the watch a certain depth, especially since the crystal is slightly curved as well. The thickness is still not much by 12,5mm but the case is "built up", which means the caseback doesn't stick out but lies flat.

A design feature that is known from back in the day but it also allows to give the watch a nice presence on the wrist and a certain sportivity/masculinity yet refined due to the bezel and clean dial.

The lugs is also something I have not seen with modern pieces. Creating something new is important but creating something refreshing is more important in my opinion. Designs are being borrowed all the time and all the big boys are looking at the next move of any other watch company. Only the most important ones stand out from the crowd. I have also chosen for different case finishings, polished and brushed to give the watch more charm and contrast. It also gives a certain feel of quality as polishing is not just polishing. You have various grades.

I am by no means a designer nor will I call myself that, I am a watch guy and a collector, I have created a watch that shows the combination of my passion for vintage watches, modern pieces, timeless design and craftwork.

Something else I value a lot is quality. I have had pieces in my hand during the years of collecting from big brands and small brands where I honestly thought they felt bad. Straps that feel like cardboard leather with a cheap machine stitch, bezels that do not feel firm, no date watches yet you hear the date click at midnight, stuff like this had to be avoided.

I wanted to offer a complete package for the price I'm entering the market, meaning that you get a package with an overall top quality feel.

A Swiss movement was a must since I'm in Europe. It's only a few hours driving to the factory, which means I create a personal bond with the factory. I do like the Japanese movements but it doesn't make sense to use them when you're living so close to Switzerland. And the Swiss watchmaking history plays a big part in my choice as well.

So to answer your question, how important it is to create something original or use influences from existing pieces I would reply that it is much more important to create something refreshing vs. something completely new. And especially on a dive watch, something completely new is near to impossible.
Something refreshing can be amazing. Look at Halios, Unimatic, Dan Henry just to name a few micros. Are they original? I don't think they are, are they refreshing, yes they are!

That is offcourse my own personal opinion.

Concerning my own collection, it contains both modern and vintage pieces.
Thanks for your time and answer. Too much text and too little content. You watch is a copy without any new designelement added? Is that refreshing? One thing is to borrow some element from iconic pieces but you have copied the whole watch. I can respect people who supply modern copies of very expensive vintage watches as long as they stand for what they do.

I did not refer to the Fifty Fathoms, it is the Bathyscape. The curved bezel were actually used earlier than the 60ies:
Blancpain_Fifty_Fathoms_vintage_500-570x380.jpg

Many acrylic and bakelite bezels tend to have this effect.

You dont have to answer what watches you own, just curious since you present yourself as a watch guy.
 

Jockinho

Patek
2-Faktor
I can respect people who supply modern copies of very expensive vintage watches as long as they stand for what they do .

+1

Precis det jag menade med, du skrev det bra. Att stå för det är lånat/stulet etc och köra på, inget olagligt (oftast) och de flesta ser det ändå. Många företag som startar så, se exempelvis Gruppo Gamma som jag äger en modell av. De började med rena pam homager och nu kör på egna designer som säljer slut tämligen snabbt. Allt efter att ha byggt ett namn i branschen avsett kvalite och samtidigt fått in ”lätta” pengar. Skillnaden blir att de från början var helt öppna med att de gjorde 100% homager då den marknaden var stor då.
 

stijn_meraud

Breitling
Let’s be honest. It’s very similiar, and why try to say it’s not. It’s a great looking watch and the style will suit many in the 2000 just as it did back than. It doesn’t say blancpain on the dial and will never be one so feel proud about a product many seem to like, but to try defend it as a more or less own bonaire design is for me not the right way to go. I dont mind homages :)

The lay-out and part of the case are very similar and the Bathyscaphe is one of the pieces that inspired me indeed. But if you know that piece and handled it, you also know that the proportions, case shape, bezel design, caseback design, hands etc. Are different. As I mentioned, I am inspired by various divers, the ones I already summed up. Hehe. I am proud offcourse. I'm proud that I have made a rivetted bracelet (with real rivets), that I can offer hand finished leather straps, and that I was able to create a tropic that is close to the original one. While the original tropic will always be the best offcourse!

Thanks for your time and answer. Too much text and too little content. You watch is a copy without any new designelement added? Is that refreshing? One thing is to borrow some element from iconic pieces but you have copied the whole watch. I can respect people who supply modern copies of very expensive vintage watches as long as they stand for what they do.

You dont have to answer what watches you own, just curious since you present yourself as a watch guy.

Thanks for the reply but I feel you did not understand what I have been trying to say. I even posted a photo a while ago about a Bathyscaphe and a Méraud next to eachother, in September :D, so I definately stand for what I do. And I am a watch guy since 12 years, co-founder of the Belgium Watch Club as well :D. I started with modern pieces and got into vintage about 6y ago.
 

Aurum

Harsh but fair
2-Faktor
The lay-out and part of the case are very similar and the Bathyscaphe is one of the pieces that inspired me indeed. But if you know that piece and handled it, you also know that the proportions, case shape, bezel design, caseback design, hands etc. Are different. As I mentioned, I am inspired by various divers, the ones I already summed up. Hehe. I am proud offcourse. I'm proud that I have made a rivetted bracelet (with real rivets), that I can offer hand finished leather straps, and that I was able to create a tropic that is close to the original one. While the original tropic will always be the best offcourse!



Thanks for the reply but I feel you did not understand what I have been trying to say. I even posted a photo a while ago about a Bathyscaphe and a Méraud next to eachother, in September :D, so I definately stand for what I do. And I am a watch guy since 12 years, co-founder of the Belgium Watch Club as well :D. I started with modern pieces and got into vintage about 6y ago.
To be honest you did a sales pitch instead of acting as a watch enthusiast or answering the question honestly. You did copy a watch without adding any new elements. There is a market for these products and you did it well. Be proud of it and avoid trying to sell the product as a new refreshing design. Your action understandable but you have to be very careful when interacting with watchnerds who know their history.
 

Jockinho

Patek
2-Faktor
Visst kan tycka det blir tjatigt diskutera med aurum ibland, inte minst när vi har olika åsikt (no offence @Aurum, berikar en med :) ) men här tycker jag han har en poäng i att de först inte ville se liknelsen sedan ok ganska lik men ändå inte vill sträcka sig till mkt. Bättre som han skrev att stolt säga vi baserar 90% av designen från något annat, och det gör oss inget. Vi är nöjda med vad vår produkt står och ger dess användare. Knappast så den tar över köpare från ex BP.
 
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